With a population of around 11 million, swelled significantly by tourists each year, Cairo is a busy, chaotic city, that is capital not just of Egypt , but of the whole Arab culture. It's a city where you never feel absolutely safe, and you have to keep your wits about you if you're to avoid the many well used con tricks aimed at the tourists.
But with such a long and complex history, it's also a city that oozes atmosphere, and begs you to delve deeper into the bustling streets and bewildering bazaars.
The Downtown area, close to the Nile is the busy commercial centre. It also houses the Egyptian Museum , which has a mass of highly prized and interesting artefacts, but little in the way of information or organisation. Buy yourself a guide book at the entrance, to make sense of it all, and be prepared for a few shocks when you come to the unwrapped remains of the mummified bodies. The golden treasures from the tomb of Tutankhamen's are the museum's centrepiece. For the original medieval city, head to the area round the Midan Ataba, just inside the city walls. Here you will find the ancient Al-Azhar Mosque, and the grandest of the old bazaars, Kahn-al-Khalili. Be careful of the many ‘guides' who loiter around the perimeter, and offer to show you to the best places, or help you find exactly whatever you are looking for. Most will take you straight to the stalls of a friend or associate, and charge you for the privilege.
From here you can explore the old city walls, with the Victory, and Conquest gates, dating from the 11 th century. The Citadel was built about 100 years later, and houses some small and not very impressive museums. But it's worth visiting for the superb views across the city.
The Nile flows serenely through the city, dividing and rejoining to form an island, Zamalek, where you'll find the less seedy hotels, and some pleasant restaurants.
On the west bank is the area of Giza , with the more upmarket of the tourist shops. Here you'll be offered the hand woven silk rugs, and fine Egyptian cotton goods.
This is also where you'll find the road to the Pyramids called, presumably to aid the travellers, the Pyramids Road . Around 10km from the city centre, on a flat area of the desert that is fast being approached by the spreading city, are the reason most people come to Egypt . The 3,500 year old Great Pyramid, and its two smaller neighbours, stand guarded by the most recognisable symbol of the ancient world, The Sphinx. If you want the experience of going inside any of the pyramids, you need to arrive very early, as tickets go on sale at 8am and are tightly restricted in numbers each day.
The area around the pyramids and the Sphinx can get unbearably busy in spring and autumn, and unbearably hot in mid-summer. You will also be constantly pestered by unofficial guides, peddlers of tacky souvenirs, and offers of donkey or camel rides. Don't let that put you off though, try and stay long enough to witness the nightly sound and light show, and just gaze in awe at the greatest man-made wonder of the Egyptn continent.
Luxor and The Nile
The Nile is the longest river in the world, meandering its way along the Great Rift Valley exactly as it has done for centuries. Take one of the many cruises along it and you could be forgiven for thinking you'd slipped back in time, as there are seemingly endless tombs, temples, and relics of the past. All along the banks traders will try and sell you things, throwing samples up to the ship at every opportunity.
The ancient city of Thebes was built 4000 years ago, as the capital of the ‘ New Kingdom '. Modern day Luxor has now swallowed it up, and now bears the brunt of the thousands of tourists who come to marvel at the ancient monuments.
On the west bank was a vast City of the Dead, where huge monuments were raised to honour the Pharaohs. The much heralded Valley of The Kings , including the tomb of Tutankhamen, is the principal magnet for travellers, but there are many more amazing sights if you have the time, a good pair of shoes, water, and a map. Queen Nefertari's tomb in the Valley of the Queens is superb, and the Funerary Temple of Hapshepsut is exquisite.
Don't dismiss Luxor itself either. The breathtaking Luxor Temple , the Avenue of the Sphinxes, and the Temple of Karnak , all deserve some time.
Red Sea Coast
If you're planning to visit Egypt 's Red Sea coast, do it soon, before its becomes completely swallowed up with concrete hotels and shopping centres. Most come here for a relaxing holiday, long sandy beaches, reef diving in the warm waters, or as part of a two centre holiday after you've spent time by the Nile .
The main resort of Hurghada is bland, impersonal, and lacking in charm. But travel to the south and the smaller resorts of Marsa Alam, and the ancient trading port of Al-Quseir, are far more agreeable. With an Ottoman Fortress, and the best diving areas, this is the place to be.
